Removing the Stock Carb on a Kinetic TFR
Published November 30th, 2006 in TFR Project, TFR Techical Info. Tags: 50cc, carburator, Delorto, kinetic, luna, Magnum, maintenance, moped, performance, removal, repair, tfr.I’ll start this off with what the Kinetic TFR Service Station Manual says:
As with everything in the Service Manual, this isn’t very thorough and/or accurate. The written description doesn’t even reference the labels in the diagram. Also, the image shows a different airbox and what looks like an older carb.
The carb is located here on the TFR (just behind the engine):
Here is the process that I used to remove my carb:
2. Turn off the Fuel Petcock by turning it to the middle “off” position (which is actually at a slight downward angle)
3. Remove the fuel hose that goes into the “banjo” (part that connects the fuel hose to the carb) by sliding back the black rubber band (that is around the hose) about an inch back from the banjo and carb and pulling the hose off the banjo through the hole in the sub-frame. Some fuel will leak out the hose. be prepared with a rag or something to catch it.
4. Remove the throttle cable: Pull in on the arm that the throttle cable is attached to at the end and unhook the bead at the end. Unscrew the cable end from the carb (part “B” in the manual diagram) and pull the whole thing back and out. The spring will come with it - be careful no to lose it.
5. Using an 8mm box wrench, unscrew (loosen) the clamping bolt (labeled “C” in the manual). This should free it up enough to pull it back toward the rear wheel and off the manifold. Pull the carb out of the subframe. Be careful to account for the blue adapter that may be left on your manifold. Also, some gas may drip out of the carb, especially if you turn it sideways or upside down.
The stock carb should look like this:
9 Responses to “Removing the Stock Carb on a Kinetic TFR”
- 1 Pingback on Dec 6th, 2006 at 1:03 am
- 2 Pingback on Jan 20th, 2007 at 1:10 am
Hey I’ve been looking through your site for the last couple of days, and it’s been quite useful. I just bought a used 2005 tfr that is having some problems, and I was hoping to get your thoughts on what the problem might be. It will run and drive for about five minutes, and then it will just die. Then, it won’t restart for about thirty minutes to an hour. Here’s what I know:: I bought a new spark plug that is getting a spark. Fuel is getting to the carb, and the carb is not clogged by anything. The air filter is clean and is not restricting the air flow.
I have also been trying to adjust the idle and the fuel air mix ratio. At the moment, it is set to a fast idle with a low fuel to air mix ratio. I first thought the engine was eventually getting flooded with too much fuel, causing the ped to eventually drown out. then, causing a thirty minute dry out period, but since fooling with the idle and air fuel mix there has been no change in the ped’s performance. So, now, I don’t know. Do you have any ideas? Over heating? Flooding? Would changing carbs help? Let me know what you think, if you have some time.
Thanks,
Stephen
Thanks for putting all this info up, it sure is hard to find any online!
I was curious as to whether your stock carburetor was loose at all while attached? Mine has been mangled a bit, but, even after fully tightening the carburetor, the thing insists on jiggling off immediately.
It looks to me a lot like poor engineering design, but if yours works well then I probably have a worn blue clip or something.
Sometimes the clamp can develop a hairline crack and break. I would inspect thoroughly. also, there is supposed to be a nylon spacer thingie in there. Does yours have one?
Great site, I probably try this in the next few weeks, the pick up on a stock tfr is definitely lacking.
What’s your top speed after doing the exhaust, carb and cylinders?
S.
Hello, Just got a TFR don’t run I spray start fluid no pop Plug sparks out engine not sure if under compression is spark. Any thoughts hate to keep throwing good money away sorry I got this thing seems like a POS
Great site! I have no manual as I bought used and this has been very helpful!
Stephen I know this is a year later, but if you have an older model like mine, the fuel filter lays next to the engine and quickly heats up. You might have vapor lock like I get.
Thank you for being so generous with information on a Kinetic moped… and not even charging. It is very hard to find someone around my area who knows anything about these models. I recently (two days ago) purchased a beat up black ‘02 TFR (I believe). I finally got it to idle and even run at times. However, the choke had been ziptied to a fixed position. It came that way. The slightest movement, even a twitch or bump in the road, will cause the motor to bog. I admit, I know nothing about small engines. But shouldn’t the choke be able to move at least a little and still run? Its current position covers half of the intake and seems to run a little better the more it covers. A little help would mean a lot.
Thanks for this site,
Dave